Darjeeling Round Two

After our trek through the Singalila ridge we had planned to head to the tiny state of Sikkim just north of West Bengal. By the time we made the 4 hour trip back to Darjeeling after our trek we were both hit with a major case of travelers’ fatigue. After much debate we decided before going to sleep that we were going to stay in Darjeeling instead of travelling up to Sikkim for 4 days. The thought of 2 more travel days through the rough roads of the Himalayas was too much for us, besides since we only had one day in Darjeeling before heading on our trek there was still lots to see.

The day after our trek we slept in a bit and then had to transfer hotels from Andy’s Guesthouse, lonely planet’s top rated accommodation in Darjeeling,  back to Hotel Tranquility where we had stayed before, who had a room for us for the next 4 nights. Personally I much prefer hotel tranquility and it’s 100 rupees cheaper anyway. We settled in and then headed to Glengary’s, a café, bakery, sports bar and fine dining restaurant all rolled into 1 place over 3 floors, to grab some breakfast. Since they had eggs, real coffee in a sea of tea and toast with peanut butter this became our morning routine for the rest of our stay.  For the rest of the day we took it easy and caught up on things like laundry, emails, calls, etc. and saved the sight-seeing for other days.

The next day after our usual breakfast at Glengary’s we headed out in search of the Tibetan Refugee self-help center which was supposed to be a short walk outside of the city centre.  After over an hour walk, covering a good 6km we finally caught sight of it on top of a hill….. more hills just what we needed after our trek, but we made the climb and it was worth the trip. 

The center was setup in 1959 when thousands of refugees followed the Dali lama to flee Chinese occupied Tibet. The centre houses the elderly, orphans and many others who still are not able to return to their homeland. The refugees at the centre make handicrafts such as textiles, paintings, leather work, wood carvings, etc, which they sell in a showroom on site. They are extremely friendly and you can just wander around the center watching them work, which we did for a few hours. Before leaving we made a few purchases in the showroom since the proceeds go directly back to the refugees.  

Tibetan Refugee at work

View through the window

Painting hand made cards

two generations working the textiles

Amazing elderly man who was knitting

When we finished at the center we walked down the hill to the main road determined to get a ride back into town instead of walking back another hour in these hilly roads.  After a few minutes of standing on the side of the road hoping some sort of taxi would arrive (there are very few in Darjeeling and no auto rickshaws because of the crazy hills) a really nice elderly man and his friend who were driving stopped and offered a ride back into town.  After asking him how much he would want he said “don’t be ridiculous, you come in as my guest”. We happily jumped in and he chatted us up in broken English all the way back giving us some great tips on what to see. 

Once we finally got back to the city we grabbed a late lunch of momos and then headed to the hotel to relax. After late afternoon nap we headed down to a local spot called Joey’s pub to catch up some other travelers we had met for a drink. Joey’s is owned and run by this amazing local man who still plays in a Beatles tribute band. Unfortunately he didn’t have any gigs planned while we are in town.  After a beer for me and a few whiskeys’ for Jonny we called it a night.

The next morning we followed the same routine – breakfast at Glengary’s and then strolled around town before heading to the train station hoping to get tickets for the afternoon Toy train Joy ride. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, affectionately known as the toy train, opened in 1881 and it one of the only stream engine trains left in the world.  After a quick chat with the station manager we were able to get our hands on two tickets for the 2 hour ride from Darjeeling to Ghum – just 14km. Yes, you read that right, other than a 30min stop in Ghum, it takes 2 hours to go 14km. The tracks themselves are only 2ft wide and the train chugs along through town blowing its piercing whistle pretty much the whole way. The toy train was actually named a Unesco Heritage site in 1999. The ride itself offers some amazing views from the hills of Darjeeling.

Waiting in the toy train station

Riding the 36 seater train

The steam engine car

Rain and clouds rolling in as we leave Ghum station

You used to be able to take the train on an 8 hour journey from Darjeeling to Siliguria, a total of 90km, but that part of the track is currently closed due to a landslide. I overheard someone working at the station say the landslide was 3 years ago……. Guess they are in no hurry to re-open.  After the train ride the rain arrived so we went back to the hotel to relax a bit and then headed out for another dinner of veggie momos  (dumpling like treat from Nepal)…..really cannot get enough of those things!

The next day was our last in Darjeeling so we decided to take it easy, visit some of our favorite restaurants, picked up some new books and did some packing before hitting the hay early before our 4am wake-up call to get down to the train station for our 22 hour ride back to Delhi….. let the 3 days of transit begin!!

OOO_Talia and Jonny